Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts

Saturday, November 26, 2016

Saigon South International School

After a wonderful week in north Vietnam, I relocated to south Vietnam for a wonderful half-week. Just as United Nations International School of Hanoi had warmly welcomed me, so did Saigon South International School.


Making this an especially special school visit was the fact that I was invited by Mandy Friedman and Lara Keller, both of whom had hosted me at previous international school visits (in the United Arab Emirates). Now I've managed to not get my photo taken with either of them in TWO countries.

As with the streets of Vietnam, the parking lot of the school is dominated by bikes, not cars:



Fire drill:


One student asked me a question that I don't believe I've gotten before: was Bob Kane sad when Bill Finger died? I don't know the answer but my guess is...a little.

Speaking of Bob, given that this visit was less than a week after the U.S. presidential election, I suddenly saw Bob's gravestone in a new light—and spontaneously told the middle and high school groups to whom I spoke that "even Donald Trump's grave would be more understated than this."



Both groups applauded wildly.

I liked this sign in the cafeteria but felt the word choice was iffy in a country notorious for a long, brutal war:



Perhaps the most bizarre moment of my time in HCM was a phone call.

One of my four nights there, I committed a cultural crime: I ate at a Domino's Pizza. (It, too, was just so conveniently located.) They include a free beverage of your choice with every pizza, but they were out of water, which was the only drink I wanted. A manager felt so badly about it that she apologized multiple times (in excellent English), then walked out with me to continue to apologize on the sidewalk in front. I assured her it truly was okay, but it took some work.

The next day, when I passed through the school library just prior to leaving, the library assistant (the same who prepared directions for me the day before) told me I'd gotten a call there—from Domino's.

The caller had said I'd left something at the restaurant—but I knew I hadn't. (I wasn't carrying anything when I went there.) Literally as the assistant was giving me this message, the phone rang—it was Domino's again. The caller asked to speak with me. When I came on, I could tell it was the same manager who apologized about the water. She said I didn't really forget anything but she wanted a plausible reason to tell the person who answered the phone.

I was trying to remember if I had told her I was working at the school; if not, she must have assumed than any American in that neighborhood would be. But that would not explain how she would know to ask for the library to reach me.

I was not clear why the manager had gone through the trouble to call me at the school. She apologized yet again and wished me a safe trip home, but it seemed like there was more to it than that—and if so, I still haven't figured it out. While I was listening blank-faced, my hosts stood to the side quietly laughing in disbelief.


Friday, November 25, 2016

Gooooood morning, Vietnam to goodnight Saigon

After a week in Hanoi and a weekend excursion to Halong Bay, I headed south to Ho Chi Minh City for three days of presentations and writing workshops at Saigon South International School.

After the Vietnam War, in 1976, the city was renamed from Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City, though the changeover has exceptions (for example, Saigon is still the name of the city center).

It struck me that I have quite a few songs about Vietnam in my music library:


  • "Goodnight Saigon" by Billy Joel
  • "19" by Paul Hardcastle
  • "Walking on a Thin Line" by Huey Lewis and the News
  • "For What It's Worth" by Buffalo Springfield
  • "I Have Seen the Rain" by Pink and James T. Moore (her dad, who wrote it)
  • "7 O'Clock News/Silent Night" by Simon & Garfunkel
  • "Last Train to Clarksville" by the Monkees (who knew?)
  • "Blowin' in the Wind" by Peter, Paul, and Mary (Bob Dylan cover)

My hotel, Hotel Opera, run by an Australian, is named for the Sydney Opera House. It was conveniently located right across the street from the school.

I arrived on the Sunday night still in some form of shock following the U.S. presidential election the Tuesday before. Signs that America can unify are everywhere, even in a small hotel in Ho Chi Minh, if you choose to see them. These bottles were already in that order; no rigging here:



Ironing was not permitted in the rooms. I asked how I could get something ironed and was told I'd have to wait till 8 a.m. the next morning. But that was later than I needed to be at the school. So the employee at reception said I could go up to the fifth floor and iron it myself.

The fifth floor was not only the laundry area but also what looked to be someone's private but doorless apartment. In fact, she was sleeping on the tile floor of the laundry room while I quietly availed myself of the nearby ironing board.

The only pocket of daytime I had to explore the city was Tuesday afternoon. I had only three destinations, all sites of (in)famous photos taken during the Vietnam War: the self-immolation of a Buddhist monk (1963), the point-blank summary execution of a Vietcong war criminal (1968), and the helicopter evacuation of the Embassy of the United States (1975).


 Malcolm Browne

 Eddie Adams

 Hugh Van Es/UPI/Newscom

Given how far apart these sites were from each other and from my hotel, and factoring in HCM traffic, I made it to only the first two (which were the two I most wanted to see anyway).

The immolation:






It took me a few minutes, but I eventually oriented myself by finding one remnant of the 1963 landscape still present today. It is a building made from large white blocks visible in a 1963 photo taken from another angle:



The execution:

As with the surroundings in the monk photo, the skyline here is totally different than it was when the photo was taken. I am trusting this site for providing this address (which I found nowhere else).



By the way, the backstory of the police chief who shot the Vietcong is fascinating and heartbreaking.

Also fascinating: I needed help plotting out the best way to get around to these sites in part because they are not marked with a sign or statue and in part because taxi drivers generally don't speak English. I consulted a knowledgeable Vietnamese library assistant at the school, who kindly wrote instructions for my taxi driver:



I showed her the Pulitzer Prize-winning photo of the execution—and was surprised she'd never seen it before. But I shouldn't have been because that disturbing incident—along with much of the rest of that devastating war—is not commemorated there.

One of my proudest moments in Vietnam—and one of the biggest adventures in Asia—is crossing the street on foot. This is the rotary I had to navigate to get to the site of the execution photo (my taxi driver would not drive into it):



To end on a light note, I was happy to discover these cute, crunchy, snappily packaged little apples from New Zealand.


Goodnight Saigon.

Sunday, November 13, 2016

United Nations International School, Hanoi, Vietnam

From 11/7 to 11/10/16, I was the guest of the United Nations International School in Hanoi (then Saigon South International School the week after). I've been treated to spectacular welcome displays before, but this school may take the crown given the size and sheer number of the posters around the campus. Huge thanks to my kind hosts for going all out and then some to pump up the kids. 



 
They also ordered stacks of books.


They also gave kids the chance to pose as a superhero.


They also put out a fun array of superhero-themed puzzles for kids to tackle as they wished.


They also asked kids to reflect on heroes from the real world...


...and in their own lives. Given that my time at UNIS overlapped with the U.S. presidential election, it was an especially apt week for that.


Thank you again to Julie, Deborah, and everyone else at UNIS who has made my time here so special. A special mention to film teacher and fellow pop culture junkie Jackson Garland for the burgers and banter and to the other kind crews who kept me company at dinner.


Tuesday, November 8, 2016

Gooooood morning, Vietnam!

On 11/5/16, after back-to-back keynotes (11/2 at the Connecticut Reading Association conference and 11/3 at the Association of Literacy Educators and Researchers conference in South Carolina), I arrived in Vietnam. It is the fifth Asian country I am visiting for the first time in 2016. (The other four are Nepal, Malaysia, Thailand, and Hong Kong, which is part of China.)

I am here on generous invitation of two schools, one in Hanoi and one in Ho Chi Minh.

When I posted the following photo with the caption "Goooooood morning, Vietnam!" (number of "o"s varies), a longtime friend wrote "Bet you've waited forever to say that." (Close. Since 1987.)

I don't know if the woman behind me looking at the camera 
counts as a photo bomb.

My first day in Hanoi, I visited three sites: a (former) prison, a temple, and a lake.

"Maison Centrale" is Hỏa Lò Prison, which became known during the Vietnam War as the Hanoi Hilton, where American soldiers who'd been shot down (including John McCain) were held and mistreated. But the horrific history of the facility goes back to the 1800s, when it was built by the French to imprison Vietnamese political dissidents.


And now there's a welcome mat.






I'm told this is propaganda. 
Oddly, the one who told me was not the museum.
There, these "happy POWs" photos are passed off as authentic.




When I learned of a site commonly (but apparently incorrectly) called the Temple of Literature, of course I had to visit. Built in 1070, it is a Temple of Confucius that was the first national university in Vietnam. Walking the grounds I felt I'd like to learn something there.

My second photobomber of the day, this one deliberately.

In near-perfect English, these adorable Vietnamese kids were 
interviewing tourists, recording the answers in their notebooks. 
When one asked my favorite place in Vietnam and I hesitated,
she said "This place?" The answer may be yes, because of them.












Hoàn Kiếm Lake is a lovely spot surrounded by roads that recently went pedestrians-only, thus allowing one to spot children sitting in the middle of an intersection.


Everybody Quang Trung tonight.

A Hanoi Halloween, still.

 Batman sighting #1: toy packaging sporting a mashup of 
Batman movie characters 
(Robin from Batman Forever and Joker from The Dark Knight).

Batman sighting #2: cutout standups at an electronics store.

A philosophical bathroom in my hotel ("Man" instead of "Men").

Notable figures depicted on pillows in a lounge in my hotel.


 Quite possibly the best menu item name I've ever seen.

 Though I was in this tiny shop for only a few seconds, 
the shopkeeper asked if I could help her by drawing 
a Christmas tree in the corner of a display board. 
A Jew creating a Christian symbol in a predominantly non-religious country. 
An allegory ever more imperative going forward. 
(The snowman is hers.)

On 11/12/16, I traveled by car about 3.5 hours to Halong Bay, where I took an afternoon cruise along with a lovely group of about 30 people, most of whom were at least 30 years older than me.




 She sells seashells on the sea.

 Inside one of the caves throughout the bay.





Good afternoon, Vietnam.